Premiers secours pour le chien et le chat : que faire en attendant le vétérinaire

Keep yourself safe first

Any animal in pain or fear can bite or scratch, even a gentle one that knows you well. Veterinary first aid guidelines advise against giving first aid when the risk to the helper is high. On a busy road, or with an animal that is lashing out, keep your distance and call for help.

Move slowly and speak quietly. A light towel over the head can calm a frightened animal. Wrap a cat in a thick towel and place it in a carrier or a box with air holes. A dog can be muzzled with a soft muzzle or a strip of fabric, unless it is vomiting, struggling to breathe, or has a face injury. Wear disposable gloves around blood or chemicals. If you are bitten or scratched, wash the wound and ask a doctor for advice.

Call the clinic before you set off so the team can get ready. Many practices close at night, so find your nearest 24-hour emergency clinic before you need it.

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Go straight to a vet if you see any of these signs.

• Trouble breathing, noisy breathing, or pale, gray, or blue gums
• Collapse, extreme weakness, or not responding normally
• Bleeding that does not slow down with firm pressure
• A seizure longer than five minutes, or two or more seizures within 24 hours
• Known or suspected poisoning, even if your pet seems fine
• Heavy panting, stumbling, drooling, or vomiting in hot weather
• A swollen belly with retching that brings nothing up, especially in large, deep-chested dogs
• A male cat straining in the litter box and passing little or no urine
• A fall from a height or a collision with a car, even without visible injury

Internal injuries and poisoning often look mild at first. At the clinic, the team usually checks breathing and circulation first and may give oxygen, fluids, or pain relief before running tests.

Bleeding, wounds, and broken bones

Press firmly on a bleeding wound with gauze or a clean folded cloth and keep pressing. If blood soaks through, add more layers on top and leave the first one in place, since lifting it can pull away a forming clot. A snug bandage over the pad can hold the pressure while you travel. If severe bleeding from a leg or the tail does not stop with firm pressure, veterinary guidelines support a tourniquet placed above the wound as the next step. Note the time you put it on and tell the vet.

Leave anything stuck in a wound, such as a stick, in place, and keep it from moving on the way to the clinic. Pulling it out can make the bleeding worse. Do not pull a string or thread hanging from the mouth or bottom either, since it may be caught further inside.

If you suspect a broken bone or a back injury, move the animal as little as possible. Slide it onto a flat, firm surface, such as a board or a blanket held tight, and keep the head, neck, and back in line. Do not try to straighten a limb. The vet will usually give pain relief and take X-rays before deciding on a splint or surgery.

Choking and CPR

A choking animal struggles to breathe, may paw at its mouth, and its gums can turn blue. If you can clearly see the object and reach it safely, you can try to remove it. Do not push your fingers blindly down the throat, which can push the object deeper and lead to a bad bite. Current guidelines recommend up to five firm back blows with the flat of your hand, on the back over the rear part of the rib cage. If they do not clear the airway, go to the vet at once. A pet first aid course can teach you other techniques to try. If the animal loses consciousness, start chest compressions right away.

Only do CPR on an animal that is not breathing and not responding, and only when it is safe for you. Lay the animal on its right side on a firm surface. For most medium and large dogs, press on the widest part of the chest. For cats and small dogs, press over the heart, just behind the elbow. Push hard and fast, 100 to 120 times a minute, pressing the chest in by one third to one half of its width and letting it spring back fully each time. Dogs with a wide, flat chest, such as bulldogs, go on their back, with compressions over the breastbone. If you are alone, give 30 compressions, then hold the mouth closed and blow two breaths into the nose. Work in two-minute rounds, and keep going on the way to the clinic if someone else can drive. A short pet CPR course is the best way to learn this. Never practice compressions on a healthy pet.

Poisoning, burns, and heatstroke

If you think your pet has swallowed something toxic, move it away from the source and call your vet or an animal poison control service right away. Take the packaging, a photo of the label, or a piece of the plant with you. Do not try to make your pet vomit unless a vet or poison control expert tells you to. Veterinary guidelines advise against it, and home methods can cause choking, vomit in the lungs, or injury to the throat and stomach. The vet may make the animal vomit safely, give a treatment that binds the poison, or start fluids. For the list of common toxins and their signs, see common household poisons for dogs and cats.

Cats are at special risk from anything on their fur, because they groom it off and swallow it. If a chemical gets on the coat, wear gloves, stop the cat from licking, and ask the vet how to wash it off.

For a burn from hot water, steam, or a hot surface, cool the area with cool running tap water for at least 20 minutes. Start as soon as you can. Cooling still helps if it begins within about three hours of the burn. Keep the water away from the face, and do not use ice or ice water. For chemical burns, wear gloves and rinse with running water for at least 15 minutes, and longer if you can. Then see a vet, even if the burn looks small.

Heatstroke can become life-threatening quickly. Move your pet into shade or a cool room at once. Soak the whole body to the skin with cool running water, keeping the water away from the head. If you have a thermometer, stop cooling when the rectal temperature falls to about 104°F (40°C). Without one, keep cooling for about 15 minutes or until the heavy breathing starts to settle. Then go straight to the vet, even if your pet seems better. Flat-faced breeds are at higher risk.

Seizures and allergic reactions

During a seizure, keep your hands away from the mouth, because you can be bitten badly. Do not put food, water, or anything else in the mouth. Move objects your pet could hit, keep it away from stairs and water, and keep other pets away. Time the seizure and film it if you can. It is an emergency if it lasts longer than five minutes, if a second one starts before your pet wakes up, or if two or more happen within 24 hours. A first-ever seizure also needs a vet visit.

Pets on insulin and very young puppies and kittens can develop low blood sugar. If the animal is weak or wobbly but awake and not seizing, current guidelines suggest rubbing a little syrup or honey on the gums, as long as this does not delay the trip to the vet. Never put anything in the mouth of a pet that is having a seizure or is unconscious.

Allergic reactions can follow an insect sting, a vaccine, or a medicine, usually within minutes to hours. A swollen face, hives, or itching on their own usually mean a milder reaction, so call your vet for advice. Repeated vomiting, trouble breathing, pale gums, weakness, or collapse point to anaphylaxis, a severe reaction that needs emergency care right away. Some vets advise an allergy medicine at home for mild reactions, and a pet with a known severe allergy may be prescribed an emergency injection to keep at home. Give only what your vet has approved for your pet, since some allergy medicines for people contain ingredients that are dangerous to animals.

What to keep in a first aid kit

Put a kit together now and keep it where everyone at home can find it.

• Phone numbers for your vet, the nearest 24-hour emergency clinic, and an animal poison control service
• Your pet's vaccination record, microchip number, and current medicines
• Gauze pads, gauze rolls, self-adhesive bandage wrap, and medical tape
• Blunt-tipped scissors, tweezers, and disposable gloves
• A digital thermometer kept only for your pet
• Sterile saline for rinsing eyes and wounds
• A soft muzzle or fabric strips, a thick towel, and a blanket
• A spare leash and a sturdy carrier

Check the kit every few months and replace anything used or out of date.

If your pet is newly adopted

A newly adopted animal is still learning to trust you. If it is hurt and frightened, it may bite even if it has been gentle so far, so handle it with extra care. Nervous new pets can also slip a collar or dart through an open door, so keep doors and gates closed in the first weeks.

Every Paw Squadron animal gets a vet checkup, parasite treatment, vaccinations, and a microchip before adoption. Keep copies of those records in your kit so an emergency vet has them at hand. Register with a local vet soon after your pet arrives, and ask which clinic covers nights and weekends. For more practical guides, visit PawPedia, or see our FAQ if you have questions about adopting.