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Caring for a New Kitten: The First Weeks at Home

Article
7 min read Last updated

From PawPedia, an encyclopedia of life with animals

Contents
At a glance
A tabby kitten on a fluffy rug paws at a feather wand toy, with a cat bed and a food bowl behind it.
A tabby kitten playing with a feather wand toy on a rug
WeaningUsually fully weaned by about eight weeks of age
First daysOne quiet room with food, water, a bed, a litter box and a place to hide
FeedingMost kittens do best with the daily amount split into three or four small meals
Food changesMix in any new food gradually over about a week
Litter boxScoop at least once a day and wash about once a week; a common rule is one box per cat, plus one extra
First vet visitWithin the first week, even if the kitten seems healthy
VaccinesUsually start at six to eight weeks, with boosters every three to four weeks until about 16 to 20 weeks
DewormingUsually every two weeks in very young kittens, then on a regular schedule that your vet can plan
AvoidLilies and any other plants that may be toxic to cats
PlayEvery day with wand toys and balls, using toys instead of hands
Emergency ifThe kitten stops eating, vomits more than once, is very weak or cold, has pale gums, breathes with effort, or may have chewed a lily

A new kitten brings a lot of energy into a home. The first weeks shape how it eats, uses the litter box, handles vet visits and gets along with people and other pets. A little planning makes those weeks calmer, and your veterinarian can advise on your own kitten's needs.

Kittens are usually fully weaned by about eight weeks of age and eat only solid food from then on. They keep growing quickly for most of the first year, so their needs change from month to month.

Getting your home ready

Kittens explore with their mouths and paws and squeeze into small gaps. Before the kitten arrives, walk through the rooms it will use and look for hazards at floor level.

  • Put medicines, cleaning products and other chemicals in closed cupboards.
  • Tidy away string, thread, yarn, ribbon, rubber bands and hair ties.
  • Tuck electrical cords out of reach or cover them.
  • Block gaps behind appliances and furniture where a kitten could get stuck.
  • Remove lilies and any other plants that may be toxic to cats.
  • Keep windows and balcony doors closed or screened.

Lilies need special attention. Every part of a true lily or a daylily is toxic to cats, including the pollen and the water in the vase. Even a small amount can cause kidney failure that may be fatal. Swallowed string is another serious risk, because it can bunch up the intestine and cut into it.

The basic supplies are simple. A kitten needs a sturdy carrier, food and water bowls, kitten food, a litter box with low sides, unscented litter and a scoop, a soft bed, a scratching post and a few safe toys.

The first days at home

Try to bring the kitten home when you can stay in for a few days. Start it in one quiet room with food, water, a bed, a litter box and a place to hide, such as a cardboard box on its side. Keep the litter box away from the food and water. Let the kitten explore at its own pace. Once it is eating well, using the litter box and approaching you with confidence, open up the rest of the home one room at a time. For a shy or rescued cat that needs more time to settle, see how an abandoned cat found a home.

Keep the house calm, with few visitors and little loud noise. Young children can sit on the floor to hold the kitten, with an adult close by.

If you have other cats, keep the kitten in its own room until your vet has checked it and tested it for feline leukemia virus. Then introduce the animals slowly. Swap bedding so they learn each other's scent first, and keep early meetings short and supervised. It is safest for a dog to meet the kitten on a leash, and the kitten should always have a high place or a room to escape to. For the full step-by-step introduction, see how to raise a dog and a cat together.

Feeding a growing kitten

Kittens need food made for growth. Look for a label that says the food is complete and balanced for growth or for all life stages. Most kittens do best when the daily amount is split into three or four small meals.

Ask the rescue or previous home what the kitten has been eating and keep that food for the first week or two. A sudden change can upset the stomach, so mix in any new food gradually over about a week. Fresh water should always be available. Cow's milk is not needed after weaning, and many cats are lactose intolerant, so milk can cause diarrhea and other stomach upset. Most kittens move to adult food between nine and twelve months of age, and your vet can tell you when.

Litter box basics

Most kittens learn to use a litter box quickly, because cats naturally dig and bury their waste. Choose a box with low sides and place it in a quiet spot. Most cats prefer unscented litter about one to two inches deep. Show the kitten the box after meals and naps.

Scoop the box at least once a day and wash it about once a week. A common rule is one box per cat, plus one extra. If the kitten has an accident, clean the spot with an enzyme cleaner made for pet odors. Scolding does not help and only makes a kitten nervous. A kitten that keeps missing the box, strains or goes very often should see a vet, because health problems can cause litter trouble.

The first vet visit

It is a good idea to see a vet within the first week, even if the kitten seems healthy. Bring any health records you received and, if possible, a fresh stool sample. The vet will usually weigh the kitten, check it from nose to tail and look for fleas and signs of infection.

Kittens usually get their first vaccines at six to eight weeks of age. Boosters follow every three to four weeks until about 16 to 20 weeks, because antibodies from the mother can stop early doses from working. The core vaccines protect against feline panleukopenia and the viruses behind most upper respiratory infections in cats. Many vets also recommend the feline leukemia virus vaccine for kittens, since young cats are more likely to develop a lasting infection. The rabies vaccine is required by law in some countries and for travel abroad, so ask your vet what applies where you live. A kitten is not fully protected until about 7 to 10 days after the last dose, so it is safest to keep it away from unknown cats until then.

Young kittens often carry roundworms. Deworming usually starts every two weeks in very young kittens and continues on a regular schedule after that, which your vet can plan. It is safest to use only parasite products your vet recommends for the kitten's age and weight. Some flea products made for dogs can cause serious poisoning in cats.

Testing every new cat for feline leukemia virus before it joins other cats is recommended, and your vet may suggest a test for feline immunodeficiency virus as well. A very recent infection may not show up yet, so the vet may suggest repeating the test a few weeks later. Ask about spaying or neutering too. Many vets recommend having it done by about five months of age.

Kittens adopted through Paw Squadron have already started this care. After every rescue, the first stops are the vet and a bath, for a checkup, deworming and treatment against fleas and other parasites. Every animal also gets vaccinations and a microchip before adoption. Share those records with your own vet so the next vaccine doses and parasite treatments come at the right time, since a young kitten may still need more doses after it arrives. It is also worth checking that the microchip is registered with your contact details.

Play and learning

Kittens learn the most about people while they are young. Those with gentle human contact before about 10 to 12 weeks of age usually grow into relaxed pets. Older or shy kittens can also become more confident with patient, daily handling. Touch the paws, ears and mouth gently and pair it with treats or play. This makes nail trims and vet exams easier later.

Play with your kitten every day using wand toys and balls. Use toys instead of hands, so the kitten does not learn to bite and scratch skin. A sturdy scratching post gives the claws a proper outlet. Put string toys away after play. Leaving the carrier open with a soft blanket inside helps the kitten see it as a normal resting place, which makes vet trips easier.

Keeping people healthy too

Kittens can carry some infections that spread to people. These include roundworms, ringworm, which is a fungal skin infection, and cat scratch disease, which cats pick up through fleas. Toxoplasmosis can also spread through cat feces.

Wash your hands after handling the kitten and after cleaning the litter box, and teach children to do the same. Scooping the litter every day and keeping up with deworming and flea control also lower the risk. Wash any scratch or bite with soap and running water. Health agencies advise people who are pregnant or have a weakened immune system to avoid cleaning the litter box if possible. They can ask their doctor about other precautions.

When to call the vet right away

Kittens are small, and they can become very sick and dehydrated quickly. Contact a vet right away if your kitten shows any of these signs.

  • Stops eating or drinking
  • Vomits more than once, or has diarrhea with blood or weakness
  • Seems very weak, cold or unusually sleepy
  • Has pale or white gums
  • Has a swollen or painful belly
  • Breathes with effort or with its mouth open
  • Has string or thread hanging from its mouth or bottom, which should be left in place and not pulled
  • May have chewed a lily or licked its pollen

Feline panleukopenia is a serious danger for kittens that are not yet fully vaccinated. It causes fever, vomiting and severe dehydration, and kittens under five months are the most likely to die from it. You can read more in our guide to feline panleukopenia. With lilies, early treatment gives the best chance of saving the kidneys, so call a vet even if the kitten seems fine.

If you are thinking about adopting, the Adoptions page shows the dogs and cats waiting for a home.

This article is general information, not veterinary advice. Always consult a veterinarian about your animal’s health. Some pictures in PawPedia may be AI-generated.

This page was last updated on September 30, 2026.

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